Diwali in Udaipur |
All the Diwali celebrations and newspaper
reports remind me of our time in Udaipur (the Octopussy city – and still
cashing in on it). We arrived in Udaipur after a traumatic overnight coach
journey. You are supposed to sleep on such journeys but, with front seat views
and a chaotic driver, sleep was never going to be easy. (Perhaps I have always
had insomnia?)
It
was on this journey that I first encountered communal women’s toilets – this
had always been a recurring dream of mine so I was understandably astounded to
find that they actually exist (I just hope the monsters under the bed, the
plane crash in my back yard and the day when all my teeth fall out
simultaneously don’t turn out likewise). I had thought that this was going to
be the worst part of the journey but I was wrong.
Like
all journeys by coach in India, and indeed most of South East Asia, it was
carried out to the soundtrack of Hindi music and incessant horn blowing. The
music I don’t mind – though it isn’t well loved when you are trying to sleep on
an overnight journey – the horns are another matter. Sure, in the daytime you
can get over them and it is only the dull ringing in your ears as you retire to
the bar for a teatime beer that reminds you of the cacophony. At night it is
another matter. It’s not the fact that they’re blowing them that matters – it’s
the why.
In
India they generally drive at night with their lights extinguished (actually, I’m
going back ten years now so perhaps they’ve updated their safety regs – you could
Google it and let me know). I think it is to save fuel and prevent light
pollution – I’m only guessing. So they blow their horns at night to warn of
their advance and, should they hear a horn, they generally fire their lights
onto main-beam in a last ditch attempt to avert a crash. It’s fun (in a kind of
Tarantino, black humour kind of way) – imagine, you’re pounding down a rough
road, headlights off, interior lights on and suddenly your driver lights his
lights – just as the driver in the oncoming coach lights his. You don’t sleep.
We
passed a crash on the journey – we should not have passed the crash – we were
in a huge tailback. But our driver decided he wasn’t being part of the tailback
and instead pulled onto the opposite side of the road and passed every car,
van, wagon etc. At one point we were in a stand-off with another wagon, coming
(quite legitimately) in the other direction – on a head-on course for us. Our
driver won. So we arrived in Udaipur, as scheduled, at 5 in the morning.
I
guess we were blessed.
Tomorrow
I will actually write about Diwali. We were blessed then too.