Square Pegs in Round Holes?

Square pegs in round holes at Carnac

I didn’t go to nursery. I stayed at home with my mum and we did fabulous things instead – like oil paintings, trips to the park, picnics and watching Pebble Mill at One so I know I didn’t miss out on anything. Except perhaps those games where you have to fit a square peg in a round hole (or is that what you’re not supposed to do?).

            The other day I spent ten minutes in the kitchen trying to fathom out why the lid (which I had only 3 minutes ago removed from my rice container) would no longer fit. Ten long minutes – albeit with a glass of wine so I wasn’t worried about the matter – but ten minutes nonetheless that could have been spent more usefully. The answer did dawn on me eventually (just as I was about to find the Selotape and consider taping the lid to the box) – it was the wrong lid. I guess this is why kids go to nursery.

            That said, I can make the square peg fit – it’s just a combination of brute strength and determination (though admittedly some things then break beyond repair) – so I guess there’s no need for me to worry.

            Having just returned from France my next few recipes will, naturally, be French inspired. I was going to give you the delicious Sauerkraut one (the French call it choucroute which I think is a much more delicate sounding word) but I’ve no photos of that yet so instead I’ll give you a lovely speedy fish recipe. Beurre noisette is usually served with Skate wings (and it goes well with them) but for this recipe (where you flour and fry the fish) you can use any tasty white fillets. If I were using Skate I would probably poach them in wine rather than fry. I used Sea Bream fillets which were literally being given away on Bury Market yesterday (visit around 4:00pm for bargains). The crushed new potatoes (photo) were a disappointing accompaniment; I think it would have gone very well with rice (Carmargue if you can get it).

Recipe: Fish fillets with buerre noisette

Source: Inspired by countless French bars but see What I’m reading now for a good French recipe book.

Ingredients

Sea Bream (filleted – one fillet per person)

Fennel bulb(s) (one medium one per two people)

Caper berries (sliced)

Fresh Parsley (flat or curled)

Fresh Dill (or use the feathery bits off your fennel if there are enough)

Salted butter (a few knobs)

Unsalted butter (100g for 4 people but you’ll need 75g for 2)

Olive oil

Plain flour

Rice or potatoes to serve

What I Do

Quarter the fennel bulbs (removing the fronds for later) and put them in an oven-proof dish. Drizzle generously with olive oil and then dot with a few knobs of salted butter. Put in the oven on Gas Mark 6 until tender (at least 30 minutes – you can always keep it warm if it becomes tender sooner), about ten minutes before the end you may want to sprinkle brown sugar on the fennel (this is optional but can help enhance the flavour). Cook your accompaniment (rice or potatoes) as you normally would).

Meanwhile put a few spoons of plain flour on a plate with some seasoning (if desired), I used black pepper and then grey salt which is a Normandy speciality. Lightly press the fillets into the flour, coating both sides. Cut off the knob of unsalted butter (you don’t need to weigh it, it’s a guide – use the lines on the packet) and chop your herbs and caper berries. Have these ready by the hob as it’s one of those meals you finish quickly.

When your fennel and accompaniment are nearly done, dust off any excess flour and fry the fish on both sides – this won’t take long but will depend on the thickness of your fish. When cooked serve on warmed plates along with the fennel and potatoes/rice. Drop the unsalted butter into the frying pan you used for the fish and melt, do this over a medium heat, stirring the butter down. Once melted allow it to go brown in colour – don’t let it burn – you’ll know it’s right because it should start to smell nutty. Remove from the heat and then stir in the herbs and berries (it will spit a lot at this point so be careful). Drizzle this over your fish and on the plate so it looks nice.